I bought a 1.1 stub 580 as the 1.1 stub and larger nibs supposedly have a wetter feed in Twsbi pens and I wanted a relatively wet flow to the nib. The Twsbi 580 uses a #5 nib, so I bought that size for this project. All this adds up to a very practical pen for this project.į-C sells both #5 nibs, and #6 nibs in both steel and gold, as well as specialized nibs that are less popular. I chose a Twsbi 580 as my pen to customize because it is a nice pen with a piston filler, a large ink capacity, and a cap that has a O-ring seal and a cap with a sealed section for the nib so if ink creeps onto the nib in your pocket, it wont get on the section where you hold the pen. The thing is, the steel nibs are quite affordable so I thought I would upgrade a cheap(er) pen with a F-C nib to try to make a cheap pen that acts like a much more expensive pen. Brian Gray of Edison Pens has a great article on this topic. Many people swear by gold nibs, but I am starting to think that the big difference between a gold nib and a steel one is primarily how soft the nib is. This company is held to have great nibs that are tuned very well from the factory. It is often a long task to figure out for sure if a nib will fit into a fountain pen or not without buying them and crossing your fingers that everything is copacetic.Īfter reading and watching many reviews, I came across the Franklin Christoph company (commonly abbreviated as F-C).
There is one problem though, not all nibs will fit in all fountain pens. Now that I have been into the hobby for some time now, the sticker shock has worn off (a little bit).Įventually I learned that many people switch the nibs in their fountain pens, which means that one could potentially put a high end nib in a lower end pen, with the associated cost savings. When I first started browsing the Fountain Pen Network forums I was horrified at how much a high end fountain pen with a “decent nib” could cost.
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